Exfoliation helps to remove dead skin cells, improve dull skin and clogged pores —but it needs to be done right. And not every consumer follows best practices, according to dermatologists.

Types of Exfoliation

Exfoliation can be done via a chemical or a physical/mechanical exfoliant.

Chemical exfoliants include topical products like alpha hydroxy acids such as glycolic acid and beta hydroxy acids such as salicylic acid. Generally speaking, a chemical exfoliant can be used 1-2 times per week, gradually increasing the frequency of use as tolerated.

Alpha hydroxy acids, such as glycolic, lactic, and mandelic acid, are chemical exfoliants that can also help reduce hyperpigmentation and increase collagen production.

Physical (or mechanical) exfoliation involves using facial brushes, scrubs or sponges.

Some experts say facial scrubs can sometimes be too harsh to be used daily.

Another physical exfoliation option is a konjac sponge. It can be used 2-3 times a week with plain water or a regular cleanser.

Which Exfoliant To Use on Skin

“The type of exfoliant one chooses to use is generally based on personal preferences, according to experts like dermatologist Dr. Whitney Tolpinrud, MD, medical director at Curology (who goes by Dr. Whitney). “There are various chemical and physical exfoliants on the market that may be suitable, although it can take some trial and error to determine which product may be right for one’s skin. Generally speaking, alpha hydroxy acids such as glycolic and mandelic acids tend to be a better option for those with dry skin. Beta hydroxy acids, like salicylic acid, are typically better for those with oily skin.”

Dermatologists say there are missteps that consumers can make when exfoliating their skin, which can lead to issues.

“It’s important to avoid harsh cleansers that can irritate the skin and limit hot water exposure, especially after exfoliation,” noted Dr. Whitney. “Additionally, exfoliation can be easy to over-do, which may lead to redness and sensitivity.”

Post-Exfoliation

Skincare products used post-exfoliation should focus on hydration and protection of the skin, like moisturizers and sunscreen, as some exfoliants can make the skin more sensitive to the sun, according to experts in skin health.

“It’s important to utilize these products to help support the skin barrier,” said Dr. Whitney. “It protects the skin and helps prevent water loss. Keeping the stratum corneum (the outermost layer of the skin) hydrated is important for maintaining the integrity of the skin barrier. To improve the skin barrier, moisturize regularly with products containing ingredients like ceramides, hyaluronic acid and glycerin. Avoid harsh cleansers that can irritate the skin, protect the skin from UV radiation, limit hot water exposure and avoid over-exfoliation. Additionally, using skincare products with skin barrier-supporting ingredients like ceramides, fatty acids, niacinamide and antioxidants can help repair and strengthen the skin barrier.”

Curology Products for Exfoliating and Post-Exfoliation

Curology’s roster includes Liquid Pore Exfoliant, which is formulated with salicylic and lactic acid, along with a polyhydroxy acid (gluconolactone) to help smooth and clear out dirt, oil, and dead skin, in addition to 1% Zinc PCA to help minimize the look of pores. It also contains allantoin and moisturizing glycerin to help care for the skin barrier.

Dr. Whitney says products like Curology’s Gel or Cream Moisturizer are both good options to help restore the skin barrier after exfoliating without clogging the pores. Additionally, for an extra boost of hydration after exfoliating, she suggested Curology’s Barrier Balm, which contains humectants, emollients and occlusives to protect dry, sensitive skin from irritation, while promoting a healthy skin barrier.

And sunscreen is a must.

“Some exfoliants can make the skin more sensitive to the sun, so it’s important to wear sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher every morning,” stressed Dr. Whitney.

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